We don't have any sheep yet, but we've learned some things that might be useful to others.
Sheep
Introducing a new sheep
We got a call about a rescued sheep in need of a new home ASAP so I emailed Leanne at Farm Sanctuary in California some questions to get prepared. This is an edited transcript. (The sheep ended up finding another home.)
1. Does the sheep need to be isolated if we have no other sheep (we do have a goat)? If so, for how long and what are we looking for to determine if there are problems? Are there specific tests that we need to have run to determine any health problems?
Since you have a goat, and sheep and goats are similar in many ways and susceptible to some of the same illnesses, it would be best to isolate the sheep when she arrives. We isolate animals for 30 days before introducing them into the resident group and also wear iso gear (coveralls, boots, gloves, wash hands) too. Regarding checking her over, do a thorough head to toe exam – any eye or nasal discharge, abnormal lumps and bumps, external parasites, skin problems, etc. Trim the hooves and note if there is any rot – which would need to be diagnosed as contagious or not and treated. Have a fecal check perform and deworm with ivomec. As for vaccines, she will need Bar-Vac CD + T along with rabies.
2. Do you fix sheep? I'm guessing you just fix males and not females?
We neuter males, but do not spay females, since the surgery is less invasive.
3. I seem to remember that sheep need to be fed differently than goats. Our goat gets grass hay and Goat Chow. If we put the sheep and the goat in the same pen, what do we need to do differently food-wise?
Our sheep are fed the same as our goats — grass hay as a supplement to whatever actual grass is available in their pasture. We do not feed anything else like grain unless the animal is old or skinny and needs a supplement, has a decreased appetite because they are not feeling well, etc. You can also provide them with some richer hay like alfalfa if necessary instead of a grain. Some goat foods are high in cooper, which is toxic to sheep, so read labels carefully. Salt blocks/mixtures can also be high in copper, as well as other types of animal feed on the property so watch for anything spilled on the ground.
4. The goat loves to butt everything in sight and he's got no other goats to play with. (We're almost done with a new pen that will allow us to get more goats.) Until we get more goats, do you think it's likely the goat and the sheep will need to be separated so he won't hurt her?
Animals from different species can certainly form strong friendships, but goats have the tendency to dominate over sheep. If your goat is presently head butting everything, he would probably do best with another assertive goat. While the sheep would do best with another sheep for companionship. You can try them together, but if you are planning on adopting more goats, the sheep will likely not fit in. It also depends on the size of your enclosure – the sheep will need a place to get away from the goat(s) since they can potentially hurt her. Also regarding bringing in additional animals, best to adopt those of the same size and age to avoid any injuries, potential problems, etc.
5. For the isolation period and/or while the two are separated, we were thinking of putting the sheep in our chicken pen. Do you see any problems with that as far as sheep-chicken compatibility? If an isolation period is needed, the chicken pen abuts the goat pen but there's a plywood wall between them and the goat can't see into the chicken area — is that too close to the goat for the isolation period?
I don’t recommend putting the sheep in with the hens because the chicken food may contain copper which is toxic to sheep. Also, the sheep can potentially hurt the chickens if she becomes frightened. Regarding the isolation space, it’s best to have the isolated animal as far away as possible from residents. Sicknesses can pass through the air, by touch, secretions, etc. so the farther apart the better.